Wednesday, June 30, 2010

2010 Taiwanese Oolong

High mountain tea is often called by its Chinese name, Gao Shan Cha, and is a category of special oolong teas, the best of which are from Taiwan.

 The high mountain tea garden a few hundred meters above the famous "horse saddle" garden in Shan Lin Xi is one of our favorite origins of Taiwan Oolong.

People like the complex flowery aromas and fresh character of high mountain tea. High mountain oolongs contain less catechin and more amino acids than other oolongs so they are smoother and less astringent than other types of oolong. High mountain teas are in short supply every year. The oolong market demand for the best grades of high mountain tea is greater than the supply, always.

High mountain teas are classified as teas grown higher than 1000 meters above sea level. Many of our Taiwan teas come from middle and lower elevations, as well. Many oolongs are not high-mountain grown and their characters are very sought after and yield distinctive characters that oolong tea consumers look for. For example, many of our teas are from 500-800 meters above sea level, like Jade Oolong and Tae Guan Yin. One of our best quality oolongs, Eastern Beauty, or Hsinchu Bai Hao, is grown at 300-500 meters and this tea can only be made at lower elevations, once per year.

This year we have three high mountain spring teas: one from Shan Lin Xi, one from Li Shan, and High Mountain Dong Ding made in A-Li Shan. We also have two other teas listed below from lower elevations, including our two new Qingxin oolongs: original spring orchid and light baking type.

The qingxin organic tea farm is bordered by nets and large, unpruned Hong Yue tea trees that create buffer zones to surround the tea garden and minimize windshift from non-organic agriculture.

High mountain tealeaves grow at a slower rate than the tea cultivated in the medium- and low-growing elevations, due to the cool, humid and misty conditions that shroud the tea fields and filter direct sunlight. Leaves stay tender and immature during the harvest so the leaves are rich in amino acids and theanine and have a lower content of sharp catechin. High mountain teas, or Gao Shan Cha, are priced for their strength and richness without any bitterness or astringency.  

Pheremone light traps, an organic method of pest management are used to minimize bug attacks on the tea bushes in our qingxin tea farm.

The highest mountain regions in Taiwan for Gao Shan Cha are Da Yu Lin, Li Shan, Shan Lin Xi and A-Li Shan. There are many others. Each season, we taste Gao Shan Cha from all the best farms and select a chosen few, twice a year, when the high mountain teas are harvested. Most high mountain teas are harvested during the spring and winter, although sometimes the conditions are poor and we can only get one harvest a year. Spring tea is noted for its youthful freshness and bright, rich character, and is very balanced among body, flavor, amino acid taste and feeling and aroma. Winter teas accumulate and expend energy through the year and are noted more for their distinctive and complex aromas and strong qi that experts claim the tea bush builds up all year and releases in winter before dormancy.

The weather conditions in high elevations provide low temperatures and ample humidity during harvesting and processing, so many fresh attributes are preserved in the tealeaves, such as aromatic oils, active water and amino acids. The tea bush varietals that grow in the high mountain gardens are mainly Qingxin oolong, which is the type of tea bush that is best suited to high mountain conditions. Qingxin is noted for its high amino acid content, rich taste, patience in brewing and low astringency and bitterness. The high mountain oolongs made with the Qingxin oolong varietal command the highest price in the Taiwan market.

 Electric powered, bamboo roasting baskets are used to create the distinctive nutty aroma and smooth flavor of our 4 x baking, high mountain Dong Ding.

High mountain oolong tea is best prepared with a guywan or gong fu teapot to enjoy multiple infusions. High mountain teas are also one of the best teas for Hario cold brew pots, using 4-5 tablespoons of tea per liter of cold water. Put in your fridge for 13-16 hours and drink the next day. All of our Taiwan oolong teas can be cold brewed according to this method.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Qingxin Oolong Old Style Baking, Oolong Tea

Qingxin was one of the first two varietals of oolong introduced to Taiwan. Qingxin is the varietal most cultivated for "Gao Shan Cha" in the majority of the high mountain tea farms in Taiwan. When cultivated under the proper conditions, Qingxin has a very smooth yet strong character with evident amino acid flavor and a rich mouthfeel, complimented by fresh evergreen, orchid and rare floral aromas, sometimes with bright fruity accents. We chose to try organic cultivation methods with this "new" Qingshin because it’s a breed that performs well at mid-elevation and is strong against pests, and was highly recommended by a local tea-breeding expert.

Friday, June 11, 2010

2010 First Flush Darjeeling

Darjeeling teas are like no other. Many refer to Darjeeling as the "Champagne of Tea," as its character cannot be reproduced in regions outside of Darjeeling. For the past two years, Darjeeling has been devastated by drought conditions that have affected the quality and yields of the tea farmers and left all of us Darjeeling lovers a bit disappointed when we compare current teas with those of years past.

Rishi Tea has a very special relationship with the organic and Fair Trade Certified™ Makaibari tea estate in Darjeeling. For the past ten years, Makaibari and its owner, Mr. Rajah Banerjee, has produced exclusive batches of great tea for Rishi. Even when weather conditions are extremely poor, Rajah always manages to make Rishi some stunning teas that stand out as among the best in Darjeeling. Makaibari does not sell its teas at auction and chooses its few customers very strictly, so we are so thankful for Rajah, and the tea people of Makaibari for making their best quality batches available to us year after year. 

"Dear Joshua,
This year has been the second successive year of unprecedented drought for the region. The first flush virtually shriveled on the bushes, as it wilted under the scorching, unrelenting sunshine, accompanied by dry, crippling March winds. It was tortuous to go around the plantations listening to the agonizing screams of the parched tea bushes – it is a heart-wrenching exercise. The rains have arrived six weeks too late. We have had a dieback of about 5% of the plantation, and only 25% of the first flush was harvested. The entire economics of a Darjeeling tea estate depends on the lucrative first flush – losing it entails losses. This is the second year on the trot that such a devastating drought has wreaked such enormous damage on the plantation’s holistic health. Support is needed from all of our wellwishers to overcome the challenges that face us at Makaibari."

–Rajah

The owner of the estate, Rajah Banerjee with the acclaimed Makaibari forests in the background. Makaibari is one of the few estates in the world to have 2 acres of sub-tropical forest for every acre of tea. Note the enormous variety of the vegetation and the foliage of the forests. Mr. Banerjee is the 4th generation of the founding family of Makaibari, the oldest garden in Darjeeling, established in 1859.

The Darjeeling teas we buy from the Makaibari Estate are small production batches referred to as micro-lots. This year, we chose two micro-lots that have distinctive characteristics, which stand out from one another. Due to the late harvest and drought conditions in Darjeeling this year, the first flush teas are tending to have a bit more color and a less brisk character.

First Flush Darjeeling, Micro-lot DJ 3/10: Bright and lively mouthfeel with succulent flavor. This tea has a medium and elegant astringency with a long lasting after taste and complex aromatics of peaches, Muscat Grapes and tropical flowers. This lot is very refreshing and energizing.

1st Flush Micro-lot DJ 7/10: Less brisk and a bit softer than DJ 3/10 with a more focused and succulent pit fruit flavor. The aroma is less floral than DJ 3/10 but unique with its pleasant hints of roasted grain and piquant black pepper.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Cinnamon Plum & Clean Water

For the last two years Rishi Tea has partnered with the Clean Water Fund, donating 25% of the profits of our award-winning* Cinnamon Plum tea to their efforts of cleaning and restoring North America's waters. In 2008-2009 we donated $4,288.90. This year, our donation increased by 39%, totaling $5,962.48. Many thanks to everyone who supported our efforts!
 
*Cinnamon Plum won best Blended Herbal Tea at the 2009 World Tea Championship.

Learn more about our partnership with the Clean Water Fund.